DIY Wood Deck Replacement & Stain: Pressured Treated Pine with Cabot Semi-Solid Stain
We have spent the last two years replacing most of our wood deck and have done extensive research, and, gained extensive knowledge along the way. It’s not perfect, but saved us tens of thousands of dollars by doing it on our own. And by we, I mean G! A well-maintained deck can be the perfect outdoor sanctuary, but a poorly constructed one can quickly become an eyesore and safety hazard. That is exactly what we had when we moved in, but we saw the potential. If you find yourself facing a rotted wood deck (typically Pine wood), I know it can be daunting to know where to start with repairs. This post will walk you through the process of replacing a rotted deck, ensuring it becomes a beautiful, long-lasting space – with a full list of materials and tools used!
This post was partially sponsored by Lowe’s. All thoughts are our own, and we may earn affiliate commission with your purchase at no cost to you.
1. Assessment and Preparation
Before diving into repairs, it’s crucial to assess the current boards and extent of the damage. Start by cleaning the deck to remove any dirt, moss, or debris. A power washer is ideal for this job, as it can efficiently blast away buildup and reveal the true condition of the wood beneath. We used the following cleaning products and tools:
The Before
Essentially, these boards were placed too closely together and given all of the trees and the house sitting empty for a year on top of that with leaf/snow build up, there was an excelleration of damage. Wood decks should last around ~20 years. You can see the entirely rotted boards, with many others that were soft and falling apart. We did get everything fully assessed for termites and there was no damage caused by them / to worry about.
This was a little time consuming but was necessary to determine if we could keep any boards! If you know you’d rather go right to replacement, you can of course skip this step.
2. Removing Old Deck Boards
Once the deck is clean, begin removing the old deck boards. This will give you a clear view of the underlying structure. Use a pry bar and hammer to lift the boards, being careful to avoid damaging the joists if they’re salvageable.
3. Evaluating and Replacing Rotted Joists
After removing the deck boards, inspect the joists for signs of rot or damage. Soft spots, discoloration, or crumbling wood are indicators of rot. Replace any compromised joists with new, treated lumber. This is a crucial step to ensure the longevity and stability of your new deck.
4. Applying Weatherproofing Tape
To further protect your deck’s structural elements, apply weatherproofing tape to the tops of the joists. This tape acts as a barrier, preventing water from seeping into the wood and causing future rot. Be sure to cover the entire surface of each joist for maximum protection.
5. Purchasing and Cutting New Deck Boards
When selecting new deck boards, consider durable materials like pressure-treated wood, composite, or hardwood, depending on your budget and aesthetic preferences. Measure the square footage to determine the amount of wood. Then, measuring each existing area to determine the board length and cut the boards to fit your deck, allowing for a slight gap between each board to accommodate expansion and contraction. We went with 2″h x 6″w with varying length sizes.
6. Installing the Deck Boards
Lay the new deck boards using spacers to ensure even gaps between each board. This spacing is important for water drainage and air circulation. Secure the boards with screws or nails, being careful to drive them in straight to prevent splitting.
- Spacer Tool – G thought to put this tool between the boards to make it as consistent as possible. It’s not perfect, but it worked well!
- Nail Gun
7. Replacing Railings and Posts
If the railings and posts are also damaged or rotted, replace them with new, sturdy materials. Ensure they are properly anchored and aligned for safety and aesthetic consistency.
8. Acclimating the Wood
Before applying any finish, let the new wood acclimate to the outdoor environment. This process allows the wood to adjust to humidity and temperature changes, reducing the likelihood of warping or cracking. Typically, this takes a few weeks, but check the manufacturer’s recommendations for your specific materials.
9. Cleaning and Preparing for Staining
Once the wood has acclimated, clean it thoroughly to remove any dust or dirt. A mild detergent and water solution or a specialized deck cleaner can be used. Rinse the deck well and allow it to dry completely. We cleaned the deck, railings, and pergola with a specialized product. The best approach is to use a pump sprayer. Fill the container with half cleaner and the other half water. Start by spraying down one section of the deck, and let it sit on there for about five minutes. Hose off – do not use a power washer as it might damage the deck.
10. Staining the Deck
Choose a high-quality stain that offers UV protection and water resistance. Apply the stain evenly, following the grain of the wood, and let it dry according to the product’s instructions. Multiple coats may be necessary for the desired color and protection. We went with a Semi-Solid stain to have protection, but still see the wood grain. Cabot was the most recommended, highly reviewed option from our research. They also offered a wide range of colors. We wanted to best match the natural wood look, and compliment the existing stone detail along our exterior. The color we used and the tools are:
- Cabot Semi Solid Stain in Taupe – Need to Get the Color Mix
- Deck and Fence 5 Inch Reusable Natural Bristle-Polyester Blend Flat Paint Brush
- Mr. LongArm Woodmates 6.75-in x 11.8-in Synthetic Blend Stain Pad
- Project Source 5-ft to 5-ft Threaded Extension Pole
- Project Source 15.5-in x 11.5-in Disposable Paint Tray
11. Installing Railing Cables
If your deck has, or you want to go with railing cables, it is best to do it after you have finished installing and staining. This option allows for a modern and sleek finish. These not only enhance the deck’s appearance but also offer unobstructed views and increased safety. Ensure they are installed securely and evenly!
G installed turnbuckles and terminals on each deck post. He then measured from each railing end for the cable and installed it into the turnbuckles and terminals. Make sure it its tightened and snug – it can be a tedious process! Repeat the process -our cables are 3 inches apart. We then attached the post caps with a nail gun, and stained! Here is everything we used:
Replacing a rotted deck requires time, effort, and attention to detail, but the result is a beautiful, safe, and durable outdoor space. By following these steps and using quality materials, you can transform a neglected deck into a welcoming area for relaxation and entertainment. Whether you choose to do it yourself or hire a professional, careful planning and execution will ensure your deck stands the test of time.
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